Vogue ᠰᠡᠳᠬᠦᠯ ᠤᠨ ᠠᠩᠭ᠍ᠯᠢ ᠤᠯᠤᠰ ᠤᠨ ᠬᠡᠪᠯᠡᠯ ᠤᠨ 2019 ᠣᠨ ᠤ 5 ᠰᠠᠷ᠎ᠠ ᠶᠢᠨ ᠳ᠋ᠤᠭᠠᠷ （2） .pdf

w w w .tu .co .u k Z e b ra p rin t s h irt £ 1 8 L IF E P ET ER L IN D BE R G H ; A LA SD A IR M c LE LL A N ; W IL LY V A N D ER PE R R E; G ET TY IM A G ES ; P IX EL AT E. BI Z 101 05-19-Living-JSJStyle.indd 101 19/03/2019 14:48 Ta ylo r S w ift a n d C h iw etel E jio fo r A ll-sta r ca st A b o v e, fro m left: R iz A h m ed ; M a ry J B lig e; Iris L a w . B elo w : R eg in a K in g I n th e m id d le o f film an d televisio n’s aw ard seaso n , th e m ost celeb rated n am es h ead ed to M ay fair, an d to Vo gu e’s F ash io n J A M ES D K EL LY ; T O M M IT C H EL L 05-19-Living-Fash-Film-Party-revoked.indd 102 12/03/2019 17:46 A b o v e: Jen n a C o lem a n . B elo w : S tep h en S o llitto a n d A m y A d a m s A b o v e left: D J H o n ey D ijo n ta k es to th e d eck s. L eft: E liza b eth D eb ick i. B elo w : fro m left, Ja ye T h o m p so n a n d G ia n lu ca L o n g o . R ig h t: D Js H o n ey D ijo n a n d F a t To n y F ro m left: G eo rg ia M a y a n d L izzy Ja g g er S h in i P a rk F ro m left: S tefa n C a m p b ell, N ik i M ’n ra y a n d A lec M a x w ell K a th erin e L a n g fo rd N o o m i R a p a ce F ro m left: R a d h ik a N a ir a n d E m m a W eym o u th F ro m left: L ily C o llin s a n d A n ya Ta ylo r-Jo y E lea n o r To m lin so n Ja ck O ’C o n n ell G a la G o rd o n E m m a M a ck ey a n d Jo e C o le F ro m left: S a m M cK n ig h t, M a ry G reen w ell a n d C h a rlo tte Tilb u ry F ro m left: E d w a rd E n n in fu l, Ta m a ra B eck w ith , B ru ce H o ek sem a , B ea trice V in cen zin i, Va len tin o G a ra v a n i, G ia n ca rlo G ia m m etti a n d N a o m i C a m p b ell E d d ie R ed m a yn e a n d H a n n a h B a g sh a w e D A R R EN G ER R IS H ; J A M ES D K EL LY ; T O M M IT C H EL L V O G U E PA R T Y 05-19-Living-Fash-Film-Party-revoked.indd 103 14/03/2019 09:25 1 0 3 A b o v e: M o h a m m ed A l Tu rk i a n d M ich elle R o d rig u ez. A b o v e rig h t: E rd em M o ra lio g lu . B elo w , fro m to p : O zw a ld B o a ten g , left, N a th a lie E m m a n u el a n d S im on F red erick ; D erm ot O ’L ea ry a n d D ee K o p p a n g ; S a m R o llin so n F ro m left: N ik o la i v o n B ism a rck a n d G eo rg e W a u d E d w a rd E n n in fu l a n d Ta ylo r S w ift. B elo w : To n ya L ew is L ee a n d S p ik e L ee. B elo w rig h t: M o lly G o d d a rd A n d y S erk is a n d L o rra in e A sh b o u rn e N a ta lie D o rm er C la ire F o yM a ya Ja m a A b o v e left: S ta cy M a rtin . A b o v e rig h t: Jo sép h in e d e L a B a u m e, left, a n d F elicity Jo n es. R ig h t: A m b er L e B o n . F a r rig h t: E m ilia W ick stea d . B elo w , fro m left: R o b L o w e; E llie B a m b er M a n o lo B la h n ik M a rc Q u in n a n d Isis S a m a ssa B etty B a ch z. R ig h t: G a b riella W ild e XXX D A R R EN G ER R IS H ; J A M ES D K EL LY ; T O M M IT C H EL L V O G U E PA R T Y 05-19-Living-Fash-Film-Party-revoked.indd 104 12/03/2019 17:47 essen tia ls T h e la test a d d itio n s to th is ir resistib le se r ies fro m B r itish Vo g u e a n d C o n ra n O cto p u s ex p lo re k e y p ieces in a sty lish w o m a n’s w a rd ro b e, a n d fea tu re p h o to g ra p h s fro m Vo g u e’s p ee rless a rch iv e o f m o re th a n a m illio n im a ges O N SA L E N O W £15 EACH IS B N : 9 7 8 1 8 4 0 9 1 7 6 7 3 IS B N : 9 7 8 1 8 4 0 9 1 7 6 8 0 04-19-EssentialsAD.indd 110 24/01/2019 09:26 TECH “It’s less th a n 4 cm ta ll, b u t th is sp ea k er h a s a m a zin g so u n d .” L ex o n M in o B lu eto o th S p ea k er, £ 3 9 , a t S elfrid g es 1. “T h is is th e p erfect ‘in tro ’ d ro n e. M y p h o n e sn a p s d irectly in to th e co n tro ller o r I ca n u se it w ith a n a p p .” 2 . “T h e O sm o P o ck et ca m era u ses to p -o f- th e-lin e im a g e sta b ilisa tio n tech n o lo g y, so I ca n ca p tu re im a g es th a t w o u ld n ev er b e p o ssib le o n m y p h o n e.” M in g w ea rs T-sh irt, £ 1 1 5 . Jea n s, £ 1 6 5 . B oth T h e K o o p les. E a rrin g s, fro m £ 1 3 5 , Jen n ifer F ish er. D ia m o n d b ra celet, £ 2 1 ,5 0 0 , D e B eers “T h is d esk fa n q u ietly ca p tu res ev en th e tin iest p ollu ta n ts in th e a ir. It a lso h a s a coolin g fu n ction a n d is sm a ll en ou gh to ta k e tra v ellin g.” D yson P u re C ool d esk fa n , £ 4 0 0 , a t Joh n L ew is sh e say s g o o d m o rn in g to e v e r yo n e sh e S h e ad m its sh e w as n er vo u s. “It w as rath er an u n p leasan t sh o ck ,” sh e say s. “Fo r th e first 1 0 m in u tes I th o u gh t, w h at is h ap p en in g ?” I d id n’t n o tice it, I say, b u t later I w atch ag ain , an d it is th ere, m om en tarily, b efo re sh e sp eak s: fear. S h e u su ally loves th e d ram a o f live b ro ad cast. “It ’s a so rt o f jok e am on gst m y co lleagu es th at if it ’s b een a really h airy p ro gram m e I w ill co m e o ff w ith a b ig sm ile o n m y face, b ecau se I love th at,” sh e says. L ater, sh e tells m e th at w h en faced w ith a co rresp on d en t w h o se n am e sh e co u ld n’t recall, sh e ju st m ad e u p o n e. To d ay, sh e is carefu l to n am e h im . A fem ale h o st o f Q u estio n T im e m u st b e b e yo n d su sp icio n o r erro r, lik e C aesar’s w ife. W e m eet th e m o rn in g after th e d eb u t in B road castin g H ou se in Portlan d P lace, N e w o rd e r C a lm , p o ised a n d to -th e-p o in t, F io n a B r u ce h a s p roved th e r ig h t a n sw e r fo r Q u estio n T im e, w r ites Ta n ya G o ld . P h o tog ra p h b y C h a rlo tte H a d d e n . S tylin g b y F lo re n ce A r n o ld F io n a w ea rs ca sh m ere p o lo n eck , £ 1 ,0 0 0 , R alp h L au ren C o llectio n . H a ir: To m o m i R o p p o n g i. M a k e-u p : L u cy Jo a n P ea rso n . D ig ita l a rtw o rk : Ja m es M id w in ter BB C /R IC H A R D L EW IS O H N ; C A M ER A P R ES S/ G AV IN S M IT H ; G ET TY IM A G ES ; S H U TT ER ST O C K 04-19-FionaBruce.indd 110 11/03/2019 12:40 m eets in th e n e w sro o m ; sh e accep ts con g ratu lation s fo r h er p erfo rm an ce on Q u estion T im e carefu lly. S h e is listen in g. S h e sh ow s m e aro u n d th e n ew sro o m ’s d esk s, th en sh e tak es m e in to th e B B C N ew s a t O n e stu d io, at ju st tw o m in u tes to b ro ad cast, an d sh ow s a m ale co lleagu e h ow to o p erate h is eq u ip m en t m o re efficien tly, h er h an d s fly in g o ver h is k eyb o ard . I d o u b t sh e co u ld h ave d o n e th at 2 0 years ago. T h e B B C h as ch an ged . I w o n d er if I am m eetin g a w o m an w ith n o sh ad ow s, b u t th at can n o t b e tru e; a talen ted b ro ad caster can p ro ject an y m o o d sh e w ish es. B u t th e B B C w as a d ifferen t p lace w h en sh e b eg an , in 1 9 8 8 – factio n al, ag g ressive, sexist. “If th e six o’c lo ck [n e w s] h ad a sto r y th ey d id n’t w an t th e o n e o’c lo ck [n ew s] to k n ow ab o u t, th ey w o u ld n’t p u t it in th e ru n n in g o rd er,” sh e says. “It w as a terrib le atm o sp h ere – d o g -eat-d o g , b itch y, n o t a n ice p lace to b e.” S h e recalls ask in g fo r a “d esu lto ry” p ay rise d u rin g th e early years. “M y b o ss said , ‘D o yo u really n eed it? W h at d o es yo u r b oyfrien d d o ? Yo u liv e w ith h im , d o n’t yo u ? D o esn’t h e p ay fo r m o st th in g s?’” S h e fo u n d h erself rep lyin g, “ W ell, I d o th e su p erm ark et sh o p p in g ” – sh e p u ts o n a sm all vo ice – “so I n eed to p ay fo r th at.” N ow, w ith th e co n fid en ce o f years, sh e ad d s, “H ow lu d icro u s is th at?” W h en sh e w as o ffered Q u estion T im e, sh e d id n’t h esitate. “ Yo u d o n’t h av e d o u b ts w h en yo u g et o ffered Q u estion T im e,” sh e says. “ Yo u th in k , th an k yo u very m u ch . B u t I d id h ave d o u b ts ab o u t h o w I’m g o in g to fit e v er y th in g in . B ecau se I’m still d o in g n ew s, th o u g h less o f it, an d F a k e or F ortu n e?, an d A n tiq u es R oa d sh ow w ill start in M ay. A ccom p an yin g th e th rill o f b ein g ask ed , w as: ‘O h m y G o d , h ow am I go in g to m ak e all th at w o rk ?’ A n d yo u k n ow, I still h aven’t q u ite” – an d sh e p au ses, th in k in g – “reso lved it.” Q u estion T im e is essen tial vie w in g. A t th e tim e o f o u r in ter vie w, B rexit n ego tiation s are in d ead lo ck . “ W e are at a p o in t w h ere so m an y o f th e q u estion s th at co m e th ro u g h fro m th e au d ien ce are: w h o is in con tro l?” sh e says. “ W h y w on’t th ey w o rk to geth er to so rt th is o u t? W e’re in a m ess. W h at are th ey go in g to d o ?” It can b e con troversial, as sh e learn t in h er secon d w eek , w h en h er d ism issal o f D ian e A b b o tt ’s c laim s th at L ab o u r an d th e C o n ser vatives w ere p o llin g n eck an d n eck d re w fu ry from L ab o u r su p p o rters. S h e w a s n o t a lw a y s so co n fid en t. S h e w as jo lted b y h er first term at O xfo rd . “It w as ju st so n o t m y w o rld ,” sh e says. H er g ran d fath er w as a fish erm an w h o lived in p overty ; h er fath er w o rk ed h is w ay u p fro m th e p o st ro o m to b eco m e a reg io n al d irecto r o f U n ile ver, an d so B ru ce w as raised in S in g ap o re an d M ilan b efo re retu rn in g to L o n d o n . S h e w a s sta te -sc h o o l ed u cated an d th e first p erso n in h er fam ily to go to u n iversity. S h e lo o k ed a t th e a n cie n t city in itia lly w ith b e w ild erm en t. B u t th e u n h ap p in ess d id n’t last lo n g : “I fo u n d m y w ay.” S h e ch an ged O xford for th e b etter, su ggestin g th at h er co lleg e estab lish a w o m en’s o fficer to d eal w ith w o m en’s co n cern s, w h ich h as sin ce b een ro lled o u t acro ss th e u n iversity. I th in k sh e is th e m o st fu n ctio n al w o m an I h ave ever m et. S h e alw ays w an ted to b e a jo u rn alist, b u t say s, “E ver yo n e seem ed to h ave co n tacts an d I d id n’t. I felt rath er over- aw ed b y all th at an d I th o u g h t, ‘I can n ever co m p ete w ith th em , so th ere’s n o p o in t even tryin g.’” In stead sh e to ok th e first job sh e w as offered , at a m an agem en t co n su ltan c y in L o n d o n . S h e h ated it. S h e sp en t a lo t o f tim e at a co m p an y n ear th e C h isw ick flyo ver, an d w h en sh e p asses it n o w, sh e lau g h s. B ac k th en , sh e w o u ld ju st cry. H er fath er to ld h er, “Ju st g ive it u p.” B u t sh e d id n’t: “It w o u ld h ave felt lik e failu re.” S h e m oved in to ad vertisin g (“a b last ”), m et h er h u sb an d (“a typ ical C h ristm as- p a rty situ a tio n”) a n d w o rk e d o n cam p aig n s fo r face cream , m ilk an d w o o l. B u t sh e w as “restless”; w h en I ask h er to d escrib e h erself, th at is th e w o rd sh e ch o o ses. S h e th o u g h t ab o u t p o litics b u t ab an d o n ed th e id ea: “I d id n’t h ave th e p assio n fo r a p arty.” T h en sh e m et th e ed ito r o f P a n ora m a at a w ed d in g. S h e w ro te to h im w ith id eas fo r p ro gram m es, an d e ven tu ally h e h ired h er. “I k n e w in stan tly th e d ay I started at P a n ora m a,” sh e says. “Ju st in stan tly. I am h o m e.” I am en tirely co n vin ced o f B ru ce ’s d ecen cy an d h ap p in ess; even so, I ask h er at th e en d , w h en sh e w as last an g ry. I w an t to k n ow if th e sh een ever falls aw ay. It d o esn’t, o f co u rse. S h e p o n d ers, b u t sh e c an’t fin d it. “O h G o d , I’m failin g,” sh e says. H er co n cep t o f failu re is very d ifferen t fro m m in e. n Q u estio n T im e a irs o n T h u rsd a y s a t 1 0 .3 5 p m on B B C O n e “It w a s a te r r ib le a tm osph ere – d o g -ea t- d og, b itch y, n o t a n ice p la ce to b e” A b o v e, fro m to p : B ru ce h o stin g Q u estio n Tim e; in th e B B C stu d io w ith D a v id D im b leb y; a n d in fro n t o f h er n ew s d esk . L eft: lea v in g 1 0 D o w n in g S treet A b ov e: w ith th e Q u een a t a 2 0 1 1 B u ck in gh a m P a la ce recep tion for m em b ers of th e m ed ia SPOTLIGHT BB C /R IC H A R D L EW IS O H N ; C A M ER A P R ES S/ G AV IN S M IT H ; G ET TY IM A G ES ; S H U TT ER ST O C K 04-19-FionaBruce.indd 113 07/03/2019 08:47 1 1 1 05-19-Archive.indd 108 03/03/2019 10:04 A t B a a lb ek ’s G rea t M osq u e, op p osite a n d left, D oroth y M cG ow a n d on s a little b la c k d ress, “g o o d fa sh io n c u rre n c y a n yw h ere in th e w orld ”. B elow : th e m od el in a B eiru t ca fé W hy, th ey m u st h a ve w on d ered , w a s th is w o m a n w ea rin g fu ll eve n in g d ress in th e d ese rt in th e m id d le of th e d a y? W illia m K le in , w h o c e le b ra te s h is 9 1 st b irth d ay in A p ril, m u st b e Vogu e’s o ld est livin g star p h o to grap h er. H is co lleagu e Fran k H o r vat started aro u n d th e sam e tim e, in 1 9 5 6 , b u t is K lein’s ju n io r – b y n in e d ays. K lein w as retain ed m o stly b y th e A m erican an d Fren ch ed itio n s fo r h is atten tion -grab b in g, exp erim en tal im ages. H is com m ission s fo r B ritish Vogu e w ere sp o rad ic (a little K lein w en t a lon g w ay) b u t in variab ly ep ic in scale. T h e sh o o t w e see h ere – T h e L eb an o n , m ad e in th e early years o f jet travel, w h en fo r Vogu e’s read ers a w o rld b eyon d E u ro p e b eg an to o p en u p – w as g iv en an u n p reced en ted 18 p ages. N ew lan d scap es, n ew arch itectu res, n ew w ays o f life. A lon g w ith H o r vat, K lein w as on e o f th e first p h o to g rap h ers to sh o o t fash ion w ith a 3 5 m m c am era, o ften w ith a telep h o to len s. T h e sm aller fo rm at allow ed h im g reater sp o n tan eity b u t h e w as o ften th w arted b y Vog u e’s ed ito rs, u n u sed to view in g tin y fig u res o n tin y co n tact sh eets. H e w o u ld b rid le ag ain st th e restrictio n s. Fo r th is sh o o t, h e em p loyed th e len s to d ram atic effect in Jo rd an’s D ead S ea Valley. D o ro th y M cG ow an , w h o m K lein d irects h ere at th e G reat M o sq u e, B aalb ek , w as ask ed to w ave h er arm s as sh e ran tow ard s th e Vog u e team a co n sid erab le d istan ce aw ay. A s sh e n ego tiated th e cratero u s terrain , sh e w as “rescu ed ” b y a Jeep -load of location scou ts fo r L a w ren ce of A ra b ia w h o m isto ok h er gesticu lation fo r gen u in e d istress. ( W h y, th ey m u st h av e w o n d ered , w as th is w o m an w earin g fu ll e ven in g d ress in th e d esert in th e m id d le o f th e d ay?) In tim e, K lein tired o f th e fash io n w o rld . Fo r h is film Q u i êtes-v ou s, P olly M a g goo? (1 9 6 6 ), h e d rew o n h is years at Vog u e. A satire o n th e in d u str y, in its p ro tag o n ist, Po lly – p layed b y h is favo u rite, D o ro th y M cG ow an – K lein p u n ctu red th e self-reg ard o f a w o rld in to w h ich h e h ad n ever tru ly fitted . B u t in 1 9 6