Vogue ᠰᠡᠳᠬᠦᠯ ᠤᠨ ᠠᠩᠭ᠍ᠯᠢ ᠤᠯᠤᠰ ᠤᠨ ᠬᠡᠪᠯᠡᠯ ᠤᠨ 2019 ᠣᠨ ᠤ 5 ᠰᠠᠷ᠎ᠠ ᠶᠢᠨ ᠳ᠋ᠤᠭᠠᠷ （1） .pdf

W E’VE WAITED A LIFETIME TO ROCK THIS SILVER. BECAUSE YOU’RE W ORTH IT. HELEN M IRREN M IK A EL J A N SS O N ; A LA SD A IR M c LE LL A N CONTENTS 16 8 O N T H E C O V E R Fo reve r K a te O n a d eserted In d ian b each , w ith o u t a h air an d m ak e-u p team , K ate M o ss d em o n strates th e su b tle p ow er o f n atu ral b eau ty in an ag e o f excess. P h o to g rap h s b y Jam ie H aw k esw o rth . S tylin g b y K ate M o ss 172 O N T H E C O V E R M a d a b o u t th e b oy B ritish acto r-tu rn ed -h eart-th ro b R ich ard M ad d en talk s to C h arlo tte E d w ard es ab o u t b arin g all, b o d y im ag e an d those B o n d ru m o u rs. P h o to g rap h s b y A lasd air M cL ellan . S tylin g b y K ate P h elan 178 Po rtra it o f a la dy It ’s tim e to ch an n el yo u r in n er ro m an tic h ero in e – th in k lash in g s o f lace, p ain terly fl o rals, o p u len t em b ro id ery an d , o f co u rse, trem en d o u s p o ise. P h o to g rap h s an d stylin g b y Ven etia S co tt 18 8 D o nya le L u n a Fo rty years after h er d eath , h er d au g h ter D ream C azzan ig a celeb rates th e p ion eerin g m o d el’s tru e legacy B a ck p age W h a t w o u ld P h ilip p P lein d o ? T h e d e sig n er ta k e s o u r q u iz A rch ive 112 A rrestin g d evelo p m en ts H ow a W illiam K lein sh o o t o ffered th e read ers o f Vogue’s M ay 1 9 6 1 issu e a little arm ch air travel. B y R o b in M u ir B ea u ty W ild th in gs, p a ge 1 5 4 . R igh t: M a d a b o u t th e b o y, p a ge 1 7 2 05-19-Contents.indd 32 15/03/2019 13:36 KEIRA KN IG HTLEY wearsCO CO CRUSH rings in white and beige gold with diamonds. chanel.com H au te Jo a illerie, place Ven dôm e sin ce 19 0 6 F r ivo le c o lle ctio n B etw een th e F in ger R in g, yello w g o ld a n d d ia m o n d s. 9 N E W B O N D S T R E E T - H A R R O D S - S E L F R ID G E S w w w.van cleefarp els.co m - + 4 4 2 0 7 1 0 8 6 2 1 0 37 M ER T A LA S C O R IN N E D AY ; M IK A EL J A N SS O N ; N IC K KN IG H T; J U ER G EN T EL LE R … to m a rk a sp e c ia l m o m e n t in p u b lish in g b y p ay in g trib u te to an extrao rd in ary w o m an w h o h as n o t o n ly h elp ed d efin e th is m ag azin e over th e p ast 2 6 years, b u t B ritish style aro u n d th e w o rld . M ay ’s th ree K ate M o ss covers m ark th e 4 0 th m o n th th at th e m o d el, cu ltu ral ico n an d sh im m erin g n atio n al treasu re h as fro n ted B ritish Vogue. I alm o st can’t b elieve I’m w ritin g th at n u m b er d ow n . Fo rty. W h en yo u th in k ab o u t it, th e su m s are really so m eth in g. In to tal, K ate h as sp en t m o re th an th ree years o f h er life o n th e cover o f th is m ag azin e. In 2 0 0 0 alo n e, sh e fro n ted F eb ru ar y, M ay, S ep tem b er an d D ecem b er. S h e’s b een cap tu red in all g u ises, startin g w ith h er first ap p earan ce in M arch 1 9 9 3 , p h o to g rap h ed b y th e late C o rin n e D ay, h erald in g th e arrival o f th e n ew w aif – w h o w en t o n to reig n over th at d ecad e. T h ere fo llow ed m an y m o re versio n s o f K ate, all in terp reted th ro u g h th e eyes o f h er frien d s an d co llab o rato rs: g lo ssy b eau ty fo r N ick K n ig h t, lo -fi m ag ic fo r Ju erg en Teller, u n attain ab le fash io n g o d d ess fo r M ert A las an d M arcu s P iggo tt, o r sim p ly th e co o l girl everyon e w an ted to b e fo r C raig M cD ean . Peo p le o ften talk ab o u t th e id ea o f “m y ster y” w ith K ate, b u t, p erso n ally, I b elieve th at in m an y w ays h er ap p eal is straig h tfo r w ard . It h its yo u rig h t b etw een th e eyes ever y tim e yo u lo o k at h er, an d certain ly w h en yo u’re w ith h er. W e first m et at a castin g fo r a Pep e Jean s ad vertisem en t in th e late 1 9 8 0 s. I w as o n ly ab o u t 1 7 , so sh e m u st h ave b een ab o u t 1 5 . W e go t o n straig h taw ay. I ju st rem em b er th in k in g sh e w as am azin g. T h e en erg y! A n d so b eau tifu l – e ver yo n e th ere w as lo o k in g at h er, p ractically starin g h er d ow n , th ey w ere so tra n sfix e d . T h e c a m p a ig n w a s sh o o tin g in L A (b ack th en , jo b s lik e th at w ere very rare), an d , o f co u rse, K ate b o o k ed it. I, alas, d id n o t. B u t sh e an d I b ecam e frien d s, an d it ’s a frien d sh ip th at lasts to th is d ay. E veryb o d y loves K ate. M an y p eo p le h ave g row n u p w ith h er, an d so a b ig p art o f h er allu re is th at th ey feel th ey k n ow h er. S h e h as an air o f accessib ility, lik e yo u r n ext d o o r n eig h b o u r – b u t th e su p er-in trig u in g o n e w h o yo u k n ow is h avin g th e b est tim e e ver, e ven if yo u’re n o t exactly su re w h at sh e’s u p to. W o m en really lik ed K ate fro m th e m in u te sh e started , b ec au se sh e is g en u in ely co o l. It co m es fro m w ith in , an d sh e’s alw ays h erself. S h e also h as th e b est taste. F ro m th e b egin n in g, sh e learn ed an d ab so rb ed everyth in g sh e co u ld fro m th e w o rld ’s g reat d esig n ers. T h ey w ere all attracted to h er b ecau se o f h er p erso n ality, h er b eau ty an d th e w ay sh e w o re th e clo th es – m y G o d , sh e m ad e th em h er ow n . P u t sim p ly, K ate is o n e o f th e m o st sty lish w o m en e v er to co m e o u t o f B ritain . S h e lives fo r fash ion an d it lives th ro u g h h er. S h e g ets a feel fo r th e c lo th es, p u ts o n th e rig h t m u sic an d tran sfo rm s in to ch aracter after ch aracter. S h e is ad ven tu ro u s, fu n n y, n au g h ty, carin g an d ver y loyal. K ate, th e cover star. I lo o k fo r w ard to h er 4 1 st. n C lo ck w ise fro m left: K a te’s first B ritish Vo g u e co v er, a n d a h a n d fu l o f th e m a n y th a t fo llo w ed I a m so d e lig h te d . E D IT O R ’S L E T T E R 1993 1994 2001 2003 2000 To see K a te M oss a n d E lla R ich a rd s in W ild th in gs, tu rn to p a ge 1 5 4 . L eft: K a te w ea rs ja ck et w ith n eck -tie, A n ita P allen b erg A rch ive. F elt h a t, £ 1 ,3 4 0 , G u cci. F ea th er, on h a t, £ 1 5 .5 0 , M acC u llo ch M IT C H EL L SA M S; G ET TY IM A G ES ; I N D IG IT A L; R EX /S H U TT ER ST O C K; S H U TT ER ST O C K A m a l C lo o n ey, w ea rin g R ich a rd Q u in n , a t th e 2 0 1 8 M et G a la 05-19-Voguecouk.indd 40 13/03/2019 08:17 R IC H A R D M IL L E B O U T IQ U E LO N D O N 9 0 M O U N T S T R E E T, M AY FA IR 0 2 0 7 12 3 4 15 5 w w w.rich a rd m ille.co m C A L IB E R R M 0 7-0 1 T h e first tim e I m et K arl w as in 1 9 9 8 , at a d in n er in M ilan h o sted b y m y b o ss F ran ca S o zz an i, th en ed ito r-in -ch ief o f Italian Vogue. I arrived w ith th e m o d el A lek W ek , w h o K arl loved , an d sh e w alk ed m e o ver to h im an d in tro d u ced u s. I w as u tterly in aw e, co m p letely star-stru ck . S o m e years later, I started w o rk in g at W m ag azin e. T h e ed ito r, S tefan o To n ch i, w as very c lo se to K arl, an d to g eth er S tefan o an d I w o u ld go to th e C h an el stu d io, w h ere K arl w o u ld talk u s th ro u g h h is co llectio n s b efo re h e p resen ted th em o n th e ru n w ay at th e G ran d P alais. It w as d u rin g th ese p re vie w s th at yo u really w itn essed th e m ag ic; w h ere yo u saw h im at h is b est. U su ally at ap p o in tm en ts su ch as th is th e m o d els aren’t m ad e u p, b u t at C h an el, K arl w o u ld h ave h is h air an d m ak e-u p team s – led b y S am M cK n ig h t an d To m Pech eu x – create th e lo ok s en tirely, ju st so th at th e few ed ito rs h e h ad in vited co u ld ap p reciate th em h ead -to -to e. It w as m esm erisin g to w atch K arl w o rk . H is eye fo r d etail w as seco n d to n o n e; h e w o u ld see everyth in g. H e w as raz o r- S e co n d to n o n e O n 19 F eb r u a ry, K a rl L a ge rfeld – c rea tive d irecto r o f C h a n el fo r 3 6 yea rs – d ied . E d w a rd E n n in fu l ref lects o n th e ir fr ie n d sh ip a n d th e d esig n e r’s lega cy to fa sh io n sh arp w h en it cam e to p ro p o rtio n , sh ap e, textu re, co lo u r, d etail – if a b u tto n o n a cu ff w asn’t rig h t, th en h e w o u ld see it, w h en n o o n e else w o u ld . (I m ean , th is w as a m an w h o d esig n ed th e b u tto n s. W h at creative d irecto r d esig n s th e b u tto n s th ese d ays?) A fter I’d fin ally fo u n d th e co u rag e to talk to h im – u p u n til th at p o in t, I u sed to b u sy m yself talk in g to th e m o d els an d to A m an d a [H arlech , K arl’s rig h t-h an d w o m an ] – th e co n versatio n s d id n’t sto p. M o st o f th em w ere to o w ick ed to p rin t; h e fam o u sly h ad n o filter. H is w it an d in tellig en ce w ere u n p aralleled . W e w o u ld alw ays b eg in w ith fash io n go ssip, b u t o u r ch ats exten d ed to th e b o o k s th at h e w as read in g, to o – h is lib rary at h o m e filled h is w alls flo o r- to -ceilin g. H e w o u ld talk ab o u t art, p o litics an d h isto ry. K arl h ad an en cyc lo p ed ic m in d ; I w o u ld n o d alo n g, b u t w o u ld o ften h ave to g o an d research w h o th e h ell h e w as talk in g ab o u t – an d it d id n’t h elp th at h e u sed to talk so q u ick ly, it w as alm o st im p o ssib le to k eep u p w ith h im . E very tim e I left h im , I felt as th o u g h I h ad b een ed u cated . H e w as so w ell-versed an d cu ltu red ; h e su rro u n d ed h im self A b o v e, fro m to p : K a rl L a g erfeld a n d V irg in ie V ia rd – h is lo n g tim e co lla b o ra to r, a n d th e w o m a n n a m ed a s h is su ccesso r a t C h a n el – m a k in g fin a l a d ju stm en ts to a lo o k th e d a y b efo re a sh o w , P a ris, 2 0 0 8 ; K a rl w ith E d w a rd E n n in fu l 4 6 43 A N D ER S C H R IS TI A N M A D SE N ; M A G N U M PH O TO S/ C H R IS TO PH ER A N D ER SO N TRIBUTE 05-19KarlLagerfeldTribute.indd 43 14/03/2019 09:22 46 JA SO N L LO YD -E VA N S; G ET TY IM A G ES ; G O FF P H O TO S; S H U TT ER ST O C K K a rl n eve r rested o n h is la u rels. H e h a d n o in te rest in d w ellin g o n th e p a st A b ov e, from left: K a rl w ith A lek W ek ; F ra n ca S ozza n i; a n d A m a n d a H a rlech . R igh t: N a om i C a m p b ell w a lk s C h a n el’s s/s 1 9 9 4 ru n w a y C h a n el’s s/s 2 0 1 9 sh ow sa w P a ris’s G ra n d P a la is tra n sform ed in to a “b ea ch ” A b ov e: K a rl’s set for th e C h a n el a /w ’1 7 sh ow in clu d ed a m ock rock et. R igh t: w ith In es d e la F ressa n ge, a form er m u se w ith g reat p eo p le an d g reat m in d s. Yo u can’t last as lo n g as h e d id in th is in d u stry if yo u’re on e-d im en sion al. It ’s in cred ib le to th in k h e w as at C h an el fo r 3 6 years. W h y w as h e so su ccessfu l? Perh ap s b ecau se h e n ever strayed fro m th e w o m an : th at ch ic, C h an el w o m an . H e alw ays k ep t th e h o u se elevated . H e c leverly k ep t it asp iratio n al. E ver y year w h en I ask m y little n ieces w h at th ey w an t fo r C h ristm as, th eir rep ly is alw ays, “A C h an el b ag !” T h at ’s b ecau se o f K arl. Yo u w an ted w h at h e w as d o in g, b ecau se yo u w an ted to b e th at w o m an . H is w o m an . H e w as co m m itted to b eau ty an d craft lik e n o o n e else I h ave ever k n ow n . A n o th er th in g I alw ays loved ab o u t K arl w as th at h e n ever rested o n h is lau rels. H e h ad n o in terest in d w ellin g o n th e p ast – h e tau g h t m e to live in th e p resen t an d to lo o k ah ead , an d h e alw ay s w an ted to fin d o u t w h at w as n ew, w h at w as n ext. T h in k o f all th o se m o d els th at h e cast in h is sh ow s an d cam p aign s: C lau d ia S ch iffer, S tella Ten n an t, S h alom H arlow, K aren E lson an d A m b er Valletta, th ro u gh to C ara D elevin gn e, E d ie C am p b ell, A d w o a A b o ah an d A d u t A k ech . H e h ad th at k n ack o f p ick in g th e rig h t w o m en at th e rig h t tim e, an d h e p io n eered d iversity w ay b efo re m an y o th er d esig n ers – h e reg u larly cast N aom i C am p b ell, an d h e g ave Jo an S m alls o n e o f h er first cam p aig n s. Fo r all th e lu xu r y th at su rro u n d ed h im – an d yes, th ere w as p len ty o f it – K arl w as b iz arrely g ro u n d ed . H e k n ew ab o u t th e tim es w e lived in ; h e w asn’t d isco n n ected fro m an y o f it. L o o k at th o se in cred ib le sets h e created fo r h is ru n w ay sh ow s – o n e m in u te yo u w ere at an “airp o rt ”, th e n ext yo u w ere in a “su p erm ark et ”. I loved th at ab o u t h im , th at h e to o k C h an el – th e p in n ac le o f h ig h fash io n – an d h e p u t it in a fau x su p erm ark et fo r accessib ility. H e loved th at ju xtap o sition ; h e w as excellen t at m ixin g h ig h an d low cu ltu res. O ver th e years, K arl o ffered m e, b o th p ro fessio n ally an d p erson ally, so m an y w o rd s o f w isd om . I w en t to see h im w h en I go t th e ed ito rsh ip h ere at Vogue, an d h e to ld m e: “Ju st d o w h at yo u alw ays d o, th at ’s w h y yo u’re h ere, th at ’s w h y yo u go t th is jo b.” H ow sim p le w as th at? K arl w as alw ays th ere. B u t sad ly, yo u o ften d o n’t realise h ow h u g e a p erso n w as in yo u r life u n til th ey ’re n o lo n g er aro u n d . T h ere w ill n ever b e an o th er lik e h im . W e h ave lo st o n e o f th e g reats. n TRIBUTE B elow : w ith su p erm od els, in clu d in g N a om i C a m p b ell, in 1 9 9 4 . R igh t: C a ra D elev in gn e a n d K a rl in S ep tem b er 2 0 1 4 ’s C h a n el “su p erm a rk et” 05-19KarlLagerfeldTribute.indd 46 12/03/2019 08:53 © 2 0 1 9 C h l o é , a l l r i g h t s r e s e r v e d . 143, NEW BOND STREET, Mayfair, London W1S 2TP 152-153, SLOANE STREET, London SW1X 9BX chloe.com M E T R O P O L IT A N IN S IG N IA C L U T C H S H O P C A R O L IN A H E R R E R A .C O M 12 0 M O U N T S T R E E T W 1 K 3 N N L O N D O N 2 F U L H A M R O A D S W 3 6 H G L O N D O N E D W A R D E N N IN F U L E D IT O R -IN -C H IE F C R E A T IV E D IR E C T O R J O H A N S V E N S S O N D E P U T Y E D IT O R M IT C H EL L SA M S; P IX EL AT E. BI Z E d ited b y N a o m i S m a rt S tylin g b y D o n n a W a lla ce 05-19-Trends-Dressdirectory.indd 56 13/03/2019 12:00 5 6 TRENDS P rin ted d resses: b elo w , fro m left, sa tin , £ 7 4 5 , B ern ad ette, a t N et-a -P orter.com . C rêp e, £ 7 2 5 , R ejin a P yo . S a tin , £ 6 5 0 , D e L a Vali D ress, £ 2 ,2 1 5 , M u lb erry . S a n d a ls, £ 5 0 5 , Jacq u em u s. E a rrin g , £ 2 3 0 , P ern ille L au rid sen . N eck la ce, £ 1 2 5 , K ate S p ad e N ew Yo rk T RU E R O M A N C E S h e e r p a ste l to n e s a n d e m b ro id e ry w ill b e th e ro m a ntic’s go -to H A IR : D AV ID H A R BO R O W . M A KE -U P: L A U R A D O M IN IQ U E. N A IL S: R O BB IE T O M KI N S. S ET D ES IG N : S O PH IE D U R H A M . M O D EL S: VA N ES SA A X EN TE